Warning, hair geek-ary ahead!
OK, most of you won’t find this interesting, but hair geeks like me will.
The other day a good stylist friend of mine changed a client’s hair from grown out level 8 blonde, with level 6 roots, to a level 6 red. By the time I saw the work, she had used icolor 6r (level 6 true red) with iso’s zero lift, scalp to mid-shaft, and was wondering what she should do from there. The scalp to mid-shaft was perfect, but there is more to color correction than just slapping some color on the ends. I advised filling the ends with a demi-permanent glaze, and then glazing again from roots to ends. Kinda a kamakazi filler job. I’m not sure how it went, but I know she had to do a little more work the next day.
I realized upon thinking, that this is an example of what “by the book” is for. Yes, following the manual can be boring and predictable, but that’s because it works. The correct procedure, was to fill the ends first, preferably with a level 6/7 copper/red shade. I’d use icolor 1 part 6cg & 1 part 7gc, with zero lift developer, mid-shaft to ends, and follow with a glaze of illuminate 6cr (and maybe go crazy adding a little 4rv!) scalp to ends. You can glaze again if it’s not perfect, but it probably will be.
Now, the beauty of following the manual, is once you have the experience of doing it in your sleep boring, you can seriously switch it up. Fill with two separate fillers. Use the 6cg and the 7gc separately in a baliage technique to fill, and then go over it with your final color. It will create a beautiful multiple tone red. Instead of the glaze of 6cr, try 1 part 7r and 1 part 4rv with zero lift, or go with illuminate 5m and 7b for a subtler rich mahogany shade, etc.
If you “follow the book”, you can really do some marvelous things, the other night I saw a man turn a horrendous bleached-out blonderexic, into a rich plum brown on Bravo’s Shear Genius, in only two hours. And I’m proud to say I know how he did it. By the book, of course!
If my friend had followed the book (we literally have books with this written in it, most salons do), she would have saved herself a lot of work. And made more money in the bargain…

